Best Quickdraws for Sport Climbing – Compared and Reviewed

Do you love rock climbing? If you do, you must know how important safety is. It will keep you safe and protected so you will never hurt yourself. Professionals constantly highlighted that without this product, you will risk serious injuries. This is why we have spent numerous hours to test and research each product. Reviewing their performance and capacity has been our main priority.

best Quickdraws for sport climbing

As you may know already, they come at different lengths, sizes, and weights. This is why this review is in-depth and it provides information so you will know exactly which one is suitable for your needs. Therefore, you will never have to worry about bad customer service and long phone queues. Regardless if you are a novice or a professional rock climber, you should always consider the best quickdraws for sports climbing.


Best Quickdraws for Sport Climbing - Quick Comparison 2019


Mad Rock Concorde Quickdraw

​Gate

  • ​Wiregate

​Weight

  • ​3.3 oz.

​Length

  • ​10.5cm

​Axis Strength

  • ​27 kN

PETZL Djinn Axess

​Gate

  • ​Keylock

​Weight

  • ​3.3 oz.

​Length

  • ​12cm

​Axis Strength

  • ​23 kN

Camp Wire Express KS

​Gate

  • ​Keylock

​Weight

  • ​3.6 oz.

​Length

  • ​11cm

​Axis Strength

  • ​22 kN

Black Diamond FreeWire

​Gate

  • ​​Wiregate

​Weight

  • ​3.8 oz.

​Length

  • ​12 cm

​Axis Strength

  • ​24 kN

DMM ALPHA

​Gate

  • ​​Wiregate

​Weight

  • ​3.8 oz.

​Length

  • ​12/18/25 cm

​Axis Strength

  • ​23 kN

Important ​Features To Consider


​Carabiner Gate

They usually come in two different types. This includes keylock gates and wire gates. The keylock is usually made from a thick and solid metal. Due to the fact that thick material is used, you will find that they are much stronger and will not become a nuisance by snagging on the rope or gear. This is because it doesn’t have an exposed hook.

The wire gate is created from looped wire and they have an exposed hook. Therefore, if you’re a beginner, you will find it difficult to manage it properly as it can get stuck on your clothing.

​Sling Length

It’s very important to consider the length of it. Remember that these are commonly referred to as dogbone. You have to bear in mind that if it’s longer, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s inconvenient. In fact, longer slicks will keep you more protected as it reduces rope drag.

​Climbing

Before considering the most suitable model for you, you have to consider what type of climbing you will be doing. For example, a lightweight quickdraw is suitable for multi-pitch adventures. However, it wouldn’t be as good for single-pitch sport climbs where weight isn’t a big concern.


5 ​Top Quickdraws For Sport Climbing


1. Mad Rock Concorde Quickdraw Set

If you’re looking for a great deal, you should consider this model. You will receive 6 drawbacks at an incredible price. Therefore, you will not go broke just because you enjoy rock climbing. It comes with 2 lightweight wire gate carabiners which can withstand excessive use. Due to the fact that it’s lightweight, we recommend this model for single-pitch sports climbers.

As it’s made from an excellent material, it can withstand a large amount of pressure. This is because it’s made from forged aluminum. Therefore, you will never have to worry about corrosion or rust. If you’re not particularly interested in rack weight, this is one of the models that you should consider. The wire gates at both ends will allow a smooth clipping and easy cleaning.

Furthermore, the rope bearing surface is wide enough to keep you protected at all times. The gate tension will keep it in the shape. As well as, the sling material will add additional strength to the material. The Dyneema dogbone is one of the strongest on the market.

​​PROS

  • ​It comes in a pack of 6
  • ​They are lightweight and practical
  • ​Easy to use by beginners
  • ​Very easy to clip
  • ​Superiorly safe and secure

​CONS

  • ​The clip can get caught on the rope
  • ​The carabiners are short
  • ​Difficult to handle by large hands


2. MPETZL Djinn Axess

This is another set of quickdraws and it comes in two different sizes so it fits your specific needs. You will be able to choose between 12 cm. They are relatively lightweight but they are strong enough to assist a frequent use and handling. The H-shaped cross section will provide a proper ratio between strength and weight. The wide contact surface will ensure a superior glide and less wear.


The straight gate at the upper part has an opening of 24mm. Also, the bent gate at the lower part has an opening of 27mm. This measures at an axis strength of 23 kN. The excellent webbing is made from polyester which means that it will be protected from tear-and-wear. It also holds the carabiner in place properly so you don’t have to worry about your safety.


This model is suitable for anyone that is into outdoor climbing. This includes beginners and those who have years of experience behind them. The Axess sling and the 2 carabiners will ensure a reliable option for those that care about their safety. You will be pleased to know that they are also aesthetically pleasing so you can use them to show off.

​​PROS

  • ​It comes in a pack of 6
  • ​Designed with wide contact surfaces
  • ​It’s protected against abrasions
  • ​The S String holds the rope into place
  • ​It has a bent gate at the bottom

​CONS

  • ​Only 1 style available
  • ​They are relatively lightweight
  • ​The models are not individually tested


3. Camp Wire Express KS

In case you are a beginner, you should look for the best quickdraws for sports climbing. This is another 6-pack and it’s suitable for those that are at entry-level for all-around climbing. This model has been designed with 2 Orbit Wire carabiners which means that it maintains the same effect throughout the years. Additionally, the 16mm polyester dogbones are available in different sizes.


It has been equipped with a straight gate for the bolt end and bent gate for the rope end. The gate is snappy and secure so you don’t have to spend the time to figure it out. It has been highlighted that the bent gate has one of the best clipping action for beginners. Therefore, you will never have to worry about it clipping on your clothes. This model is versatile, affordable and secure.


If you worry about them adding weight to your rack, you should know that you will barely know that they are there. The sphere lock system is very convenient as you will never get your fingers caught and it won’t catch on your harness regardless of what angle you pull it form.

​​PROS

  • ​Suitable to use it indoors and outdoors
  • ​They are versatile
  • ​You will be able to choose from a range of lengths
  • ​They don’t clip your fingers
  • ​It has a major axis of 22 kN

​CONS

  • ​Best for beginners only  
  • ​Mediocre handling
  • ​Average strength


4. Black Diamond FreeWire


If you’re looking to save money yet you still want to maintain the same efficiency, you should consider this model. This product is a solid and highly efficient model that measures 12cm. It measures 3.5 oz. and it has a closed gate strength of 24 kN. The open gate strength is of 8 kN.


As well as, the gate opening measures 25 mm. By using this model, you will be able to improve your skills without worrying about your safety. ​You will be able to climb your highest peak without having to go broke. The durable 18mm polyester dogbone will give you a lightweight, all-purpose drawback for your needs regardless of what they are. 


However, this isn’t the lightest one on the market. Therefore, it’s suitable for those who demand extreme rack weight management. If you’re not bothered by the weight, you will find it very practical.


This model comes with 2 wire gate carabiners that are extremely easy to clip. You don’t have to spend numerous hours to know how to maneuver it properly. Please bear in mind the hooks are not covered so it’s inevitable that it will get hooked on the equipment and rope.

​​PROS

  • ​They have been recently upgraded
  • ​It will help to stabilize you
  • ​The style and color is very helpful for beginners
  • ​They don’t clip your fingers
  • ​Suitable for beginners

​CONS

  • ​It’s rather heavy 
  • ​It adds weight to your rack
  • ​It catches on your equipment


​5. DMM ALPHA

The reason why this is one of the best quickdraws for sports climbing is that it has a strong construction. The hot forged bent gate will allow you to clip it easily so you don’t have to waste time meaninglessly. It has a generous rope radius which means that it’s suitable for novice and professionals.


This drawback is famously known for its broad-shoulder so it’s suitable for an all-around sport. ​It has a strong construction which means that you will be protected from wear-and-tear. If you’re a professional, you will know that you will spend a long period of time hanging the rope and handling the quickdraw. The thick tape is, therefore, the best feature about it.


It’s big enough so you can get a proper grip of it. The chunky sling will allow you to hold it even when your hands are sweaty. ​All of the models have a gate-closed strength of 23 kN and a gate-open strength of 9 kN. The tight rubber insert within the tape loop will ensure that it has a long life expectancy.


In addition to this, the clean nose profile will reduce snagging. These are very easy to use and to clip. As well as, the wire-gate construction will ensure that you can never accidentally unclip it and it doesn’t snag on your equipment.

​​PROS

  • ​The depth of the basket is deeper for extra security
  • ​It’s easy to grab and to hold
  • ​It fits securely on the biner
  • ​They don’t clip your fingers
  • ​Suitable for beginners and professionals

​CONS

  • ​It’s short 
  • ​It catches on your equipment

​FAQ's


When should I consider purchasing a new one?

We strongly advise that you consider purchasing a new one when it has been subjected to a major fall or load, it is over 10 years old and made of plastic or unreliable material, and when you are starting to have doubts. What’s very important to understand is that you should never use a second-hand quickdraw. This is because you will hardly know its history and for how long the person has used it for.


How should I position the quickdraw?

​The anchor-end carabiner must be mobile. The rope-end carabiner must be fixed with the String. Please bear in mind that you should never install two Strings on one quickdraw as it won’t be able to handle the pressure. In addition to this, it will turn out to be too rigid. Therefore, poor positioning will be too risky.


What is the best clip technique?

People use two techniques but we recommend the Snap Clip Technique. Starting from your tie-in knot at your harness, slide your hand down the rope to grab a length of rope. As you bring the rope up to the quickdraw, you should grab the rope between your thumb and forefinger. Take your middle finger and hook it in the rope-end carabiner to stabilize it. Then, push the rope through the gate using your thumb and forefinger.


How corrosion-resistant are they?

Due to the fact that they are one of the most resistant on the market, you will find that the aluminum is unlikely to ever catch rust. Therefore, you will never have to worry about your safety. In addition to this, due to the fact that it’s a thick metal, even if you constantly hit it on the rock, it’s scratch resistant. Thus, it will maintain the same aesthetic. Please bear in mind that as the years' pass, it’s inevitable that its resistance will drop.


​How safe will these keep me?


This depends on how much experience you have. The main idea is that you learn to fall gracefully in order to reduce injury. Do not attempt to grab your equipment on your way down. By attempting to grab the quickdraw as you fall, you will risk unclipping it. In addition to this, you will risk creating horrible injuries to your hands.


How To Clip A Quickdraw: Rock Climbing Basics !

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